Oh my, our first couple of days have been full and fascinating. I'm not really sure where to start, save the beginning.
The plane ride was very long, but, aside from a few updrafts and some Chinese officials with thermomotor, uneventful. We arrived safe and tired in Kunming around 9 pm, met with Shane and were swiftly asleep in the Hump Hostel, right in the heart of the city. Our experience of Yunnan that night was limited to the restless street filled with scooters, bikes, and minivans, lit by colorful advertisements for who knows what, and accented by the occasional scents of barbecue, exhaust, blossom, and decay.
This morning we were greeted with a traditional Chinese breakfast of sweet rice gruel, steamed pork dumplings, and eggs boiled in tea and anise. After a short wander through the tourist district and a tea-tasting, we set out to the Western Hills. A cable car took us over the Dianchi Lake, once crystal clear but now livid with an algal (or cyanobacterial) bloom, and up over a stunning sheer cliff face to the Dragon Gate.
History Lesson of the Day: The Dragon Gate is a complex of temples built into the cliff face, begun 400 years ago by a single monk with a pickaxe. The blend of Buddhist and Taoist imagery in the network of pagodas, tunnels, enclaves, and many, many stairs reflects the complex local folk tradition.
The bus ride back took us around the lake, showing us the fringes of the city. An architectural mix of simple tidiness and tumbledown beauty teemed with people both busy and still. I am quickly finding generalizations more and more difficult to make the longer I am here.
This evening we met the regional second-in-command of Heifer in the province, and went to an overwhelming banquet to get to know each other. I've just returned from this with a belly full of Peking duck and mysterious vegetables, and tomorrow morning we're catching a flight to a city I've forgotten the name of to meet with more of the Heifer staff and discuss lots of important things.
I'll let you know how that goes the next time I run into the internet. Until next time,
Sam
ps- pictures are coming soon